Visiting Torre Mora in Mount Etna
Torre Mora winery on the northern slopes of Sicily’s Mount Etna in Sicily surprised me with its magical ambiance. Its vineyards, perched high on the mountain, capture the perfection imagined by artists glorifying the ‘rustic life.’
It felt like walking through a paradise crafted by the forces of nature. As I stepped along the weathered cobblestone narrow bridge dividing two vineyards, my thoughts turned to the many generations of vignerons who had walked along this same bridge. I imagined their daily life, filled with the sight of this beautiful land and the wine from the grapes growing on it.
The Piccini Family
The owner of Torre Mora is Mario Piccini. He fell in love with the estate when he first step foot on it in 2016. (I imagine he was as charmed as I had been on my visit).
The key difference between us is that the Piccini family, based in Tuscany, had over 140 years of winemaking experience. And financially capitol from those years to invest in the vineyards and new winery. A further challenge would be that Mt. Etna, with its black volcanic ash soil and high elevations, would represent a new grape growing and wine making challenge.
The Unique Terroir of Torre Mora
The vineyards of Torre Mora lie between 600 to 750 meters above sea level, benefiting from the rich volcanic soil that characterizes the slopes of Mount Etna. The black, loose volcanic ash in the soil gives the wine a distinctive character, capturing the essence of the land.
The Piccini family’s approach to winemaking is simple yet profound: to allow the terroir to shine through without interference. The volcanic soil’s natural minerals and the cooler climate at higher elevations help produce wines with remarkable structure, elegance, and aging potential.
Since 2018, Torre Mora has been Certified Organic, further emphasizing their dedication to environmentally conscious winemaking. Organic farming practices ensure that the grapes are grown without synthetic pesticides or herbicides, allowing the true flavors of the vineyard to come through in the wines.
The Wine Tasting
The Farmhouse
Like the gorgeous vineyards, the farmhouse (often referred to as a wine storeroom or ‘chai’ in French) also goes back a few centuries. Though it has kept its extreme rustic look and feel, the Piccini family had modernized it. It boasts a well-equipped kitchen and comfortable tasting tables, but what I liked best is the way the old winemaking implements had been showcased under glass, as if in a museum.
The Wine Tasting
Torre Mora produces around 5,000 cases of wine annually, a small but carefully crafted production that is now represented nationally in the United States. The winery’s focus is on indigenous grape varieties like Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio for reds, and Carricante and Catarratto for whites. These varieties thrive in the volcanic soils of Etna, resulting in wines that are both expressive and balanced.
Their Etna Rosso is a standout, made primarily from Nerello Mascalese. It has a ruby red color that deepens to garnet with age, along with a complex bouquet of floral notes, cocoa, and coffee. The volcanic soil gives the wine a savory, mineral-driven taste with firm tannins and a long, harmonious finish.
On the white wine front, the Etna Bianco offers a vibrant straw-yellow color with green reflections. It features aromas of white fruit and citrus, with a refreshing acidity and a subtle flinty aftertaste—a reflection of the volcanic ash in the soil.
Though I generally prefer red to rosé wine, I loved Torre Mora’s Etna Rosato, with a pale pink color and hints of cherry and red fruits on the nose. It had a crisp, lively acidity I adored.
Conclusion
Torre Mora is more than just a winery; it’s a testament to the enduring power of tradition, nature, and passion. From the breathtaking vineyards perched on the slopes of Mount Etna to the organically farmed grapes that capture the essence of this unique terroir, Torre Mora is a place where history and innovation meet.
