Cantine di Nessuno
If you ever fantasized about what an old-fashioned Sicilian winery looks like, I saw it firsthand on my visit to Cantine di Nessuno. Its owner is Seby Costanzo, a handsome Clint Eastwood lookalike, with charm and energy to spare.
The exterior of this relic is all stone and rough-hewn wood, existing more for ambiance than utility. Mr. Costanzo had purchased this old vineyard and others like it to save some of Mount Etna’s historic vines.
From this historic wine house, we followed Mr. Costanzo up a very steep hill, more typically seen in the Northern Rhone. Though I was wearing flat shoes, the steep hill and six-inch-wide path made it quite difficult to scale. I wondered how the workers would fare during harvest, since the rocky steep path was more accessible for goats than humans.
After the vineyard walk, we visited Mr. Costanza’s sleek modern tasting room a five-minute car ride away.
Pierluca Beneventano della Cortean of Barone Beneventano
Here we met one of Seby Costanzo’s neighbors, Pierluca Beneventano della Cortean, who owns Barone Beneventano with his father. The family had a wine related business in Milan and bought a small vineyard on Mount Etna several years ago.
Dressed in a crisp, fashionable shirt and sleek sunglasses, Pierluca exuded a quiet confidence as he talked about his wines. During our time with him, he shared stories of his family name, which had deep roots in the Middle Ages
The Tasting of Cantine di Nessuno and Barone Beneventano Wines
One of the standout aspects of Cantine di Nessuno’s approach to winemaking is the choice to cultivate their vines using the Alberello Etneo system, a traditional method that has been used for centuries on Mount Etna.
This choice is not only challenging, but also a labor of love. Unlike modern, mechanized farming techniques, Alberello Etneo requires that all vineyard work is done manually, making it far more time intensive. The yields are often lower, but the quality is unmatched, producing grapes that embody the genuine spirit of Etna’s volcanic terroir.
This ancient method also offers significant benefits to the vine itself. The Alberello system allows for better root development and ensures that nutrients are distributed evenly, reducing stress on the plant. As a result, the vines live longer and produce fruit with richer flavors, leading to higher quality wines.
“Our commitment to this tradition is about more than just winemaking; it’s about preserving the character of the Etnean landscape,” Mr. Costanzo explained, echoing his deep respect for the land and its history.
Heroic Viticulture on the Steep Slopes of Etna
Working the land in this part of Etna is no easy feat. The vineyard, perched on steep slopes, requires a form of what Mr. Costanzo calls “heroic viticulture.” Every task, from pruning to harvest, must be carried out by hand. “It’s a necessary commitment to ensure that we have the finest grapes, which ultimately leads to the best wines,” he continued, stressing his respect for nature and biodiversity.
In speaking about his winery and philosophy, Pierluca Beneventano della Cortean also used the expression of heroic viticulture. He said the aim of the winery is to let people feel the peculiarity of Etna’s South-East Slope of their vineyard. “On our land, the volcanic sandy soil, sea winds and strong temperature changes allow our old vines, native Etna’s varieties, to give best expression of the characteristics of this incredible place.”
Pierluca also spoke about the diverse nature of his two cru vineyards, one of which lies in Conrada Salto del Corvo in the municipality of Viagrande at the crossroads where Trecastagni and Zafferana Etna meet. The first time he saw the vineyard, Pierluca says that it was “love at first site,” a small clos with dry wall terraces and ancient streets handmade in lava stone (Unesco Heritage). “The vineyard is surrounded by two inactive volcanic cones: Monte Ilice and Monte Gorna, and gives a view that opens onto the Ionian Sea, impossible not to fall in love with it!”
The second Barone Beneventano vineyard, Carpene, is located in the Etna National Park in the municipality of Trecastagni. “The steep slope makes it an extreme and tiring vineyard to work but that from its top gives an idyllic view that pays off for all efforts. From here the ever-present, Monte and Gorna and Monte Ilice frame the sea,” Pierluca says.
The tasting of both producers included delicious sparkling, white, red, and rose wines from the native varieties. A great tasting finale that further defined the varied terroir and wines of Mount Etna.
