Hospices de Beaune Wine Auction

The 165th edition of the Hospices de Beaune wine auction raised over $21 million for local health charities. Beyond the buzz of big bids and rare wines, this three-day celebration serves as a joyful, wine-soaked tribute to Burgundy. It’s open to anyone with a glass and a little curiosity.

Each year on the third weekend in November, the quiet, cobblestoned town of Beaune transforms into something magical. Step inside and you’ll find a swirl of wine barrels, formal dinners, street musicians, and sparkling Crémant available at almost every quaint corner of the village.

At the heart of it all is the Hospices de Beaune wine auction, now in its 165th year, and one of the most storied—and generous—wine events on earth.

This prestigious auction began in 1443 with the founding of the Hôtel-Dieu hospital by Chancellor Nicolas Rolin and his wife Guigone de Salins.

Over the centuries, donations of prized vineyard land grew into one of the region’s most iconic domaines: the Hospices de Beaune.

Beyond 2025’s record-setting $21 million raised for local charities, this year also marked the announcement that all 60 hectares of the Hospices estate have officially completed conversion to organic viticulture.

Auction Weekend: Not Just for Collectors

The Hospices de Beaune weekend, unofficially known as “Les Trois Glorieuses,” runs from Friday through Sunday and blends centuries-old traditions with effervescent modern charm. Among international circles, wealthy wine collectors consider this a must-attend event.

Beaune’s festival atmosphere—equal parts street carnival, wine fair, and heritage celebration—offers one of the most exhilarating weekends in Burgundy.

But it’s not just for deep-pocketed collectors.

Whether you’re dining at a Michelin-starred restaurant or sipping a bright Bourgogne Rouge from a tented food stall, you’ll find the spirit of this age-old event welcoming, accessible, and unforgettable.

Locals roll out the barrels (literally), transforming city streets into open-air tasting rooms.

Restaurants pair casual plates with serious wines under strings of warm lights. Grab a cup of vin chaud (hot wine punch), freshly shucked oysters, or wedges of Époisses cheese. Then enjoy them standing at an upturned wine cask alongside spirited conversations in French, English, Japanese, and German.

And though the serious collectors receive invitations to gala dinners behind château doors and members-only tastings in historic cellars, some of the larger wineries open their cellars to the public during this Vente des Vins weekend for a modest fee.

Among the most enjoyable of these is the wine tasting at Bouchard Aîné & Fils. For a small fee, you’re handed a glass and invited to descend into their centuries-old cellar.

You’ll stop at candlelit stations to sample wine, learn about terroir, and pair a pour with a perfectly chosen bite.

Connecting with Trade Friends

One of the great pleasures of the Hospices de Beaune weekend—aside from the tastings and celebrations themselves—is reconnecting with friends I’ve made over the years,.

Catching up on their lives, their new projects, and the producers they’re excited about now. One of those people is Jeanne Marie De Champs, founder of Domaines et Saveurs Collection.

An invitation to dinner at her home is always a treat—equal parts warmth, conversation, and discovery—as she pours wines from producers she’s worked with for decades alongside newer estates she’s passionate about introducing.

Deeply knowledgeable about Burgundy and its growers, Jeanne Marie has an enviable ability to connect people to place, and I’ve visited many remarkable domaines through her over the years.

Another strong presence in the Beaune wine community is Anne Parent of Domaine Parent, who—along with her sister—continues a centuries-old family tradition in Pommard while pushing it forward through organic and biodynamic practices.

Women like these are a reminder that Burgundy isn’t just about history in the glass, but about the people who quietly, thoughtfully shape it year after year.

Where to Eat, Sip, and Stay

Beaune’s culinary scene rises to meet this wine-soaked occasion—with top addresses like Ma Cuisine, a cozy favorite of wine insiders, and Caveau des Arches, known for its candlelit cellar dining and exceptional wine list.

From casual street kiosks to formal chefs’ tables, meals here always come with a bottle worth remembering.

Don’t worry if your Burgundy budget isn’t sprawling. Local wine lists proudly feature affordable Bourgogne Blancs and Rouges from quality producers.

And on the street, wine by the glass or bottle is never far away—often served by smiling locals eager to help visitors discover the lesser-known pleasures of the region.

What to Do Between Tastings

Before you leave, carve out time to visit the original Hôtel-Dieu—now a museum of medieval medicine and philanthropy. Slip on the free audio guide and be transported through Gothic halls, tiled roofs, and centuries worth of generosity.

Those with cars can roam to nearby Meursault or Clos de Vougeot, the spiritual homes of Burgundy’s wine brotherhood. But even on foot, Beaune stuns. With its narrow lanes, rampart walls, and effortlessly charming vibe, it’s the kind of place where flâneurs are rewarded.

In Closing

The Hospices de Beaune isn’t just a lineup of barrels on an auction block. It’s a whirlwind of culture, history, food, and, yes—some seriously fine wine.

Whether you’re toasting a record-setting bottle or sipping something simple on a chilly street corner, there’s a place for everyone at the party.

So mark your calendar now: the third weekend of November in Beaune is more than a wine event. It’s Burgundy at its most human, heartfelt, and alive.

.

Marisa DVari

Marisa D'Vari, DipWSET is founder and publisher of TheLuxuryReport.com. She recently obtained her OIV MSc diploma in Wine Business Management and contributes to Forbes.com, Financial Times, World of Fine Wine, Quarterly Review of Wine, Decanter Robb Report, San Francisco Chronicle, South China Morning Post , and more. She holds the (WSET) diploma, Certified Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers, a Certified Wine Educator through the Society of Wine Educators ... to see it all, please click on bio

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Perticaia Winery in Montefalco

It was so nice to have a semi-private visit to Perticaia during a recent trip to Umbria.

I had visited the winery once before and had been impressed by the enthusiasm of the team and the quality of their wine.

The name “Perticaia” itself is a nod to the region’s farming heritage—an old Umbrian word meaning “plough.” And truly, this place feels ploughed from the heart of the land. Today, under the stewardship of Paolo, Guido’s son-in-law, that intention burns brighter than ever.

The Visit

Winemaker Lorenzo welcomed us to the property and told us a little about its history. After a brief tour of the winery and vineyard we were led to a quaint tasting room and shop for a formal tasting of their wines including the signature wine of Montefalco, Sagrantino.

A Modern Lens on a Mighty Grape

Sagrantino is not for the faint of heart. It’s a tannic beast—inky, brooding, and bursting with identity. But at Perticaia, it’s tamed with finesse and reverence. The winery produces both a Montefalco Rosso—where Sangiovese plays a supporting role to Sagrantino—and a pure Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG that expresses the grape’s full personality in all its wild intensity.

During my tasting, what stood out wasn’t just the power of the wines—but the detail. The Sagrantino here doesn’t just hint at spice, dark cherries, or forest floor—it tells a story.

Each sip builds with clarity and structure, speaking to practiced hands and a deep respect for the grape.

Wine Experiences for the Curious and the Cultivated

For travelers and wine lovers eager to go beyond the glass, Perticaia offers experiences that mirror the warmth and humility of the team. Tastings are guided by passionate hosts who make you feel more like a welcomed guest than a visitor.

You can book vertical tastings of Sagrantino, or even explore the evolution of the Rosso over time—an experience I highly recommend for anyone curious about how Sagrantino behaves when blended or aged.

And the view? Let’s just say you’ll want to linger.

With vineyards cascading beyond the tasting terrace and soft Umbrian sun gracing every corner, Perticaia offers the kind of serenity that invites reflection—on wine, on life, on what it means to grow something meaningful from the ground up.

In Conclusion

Perticaia isn’t trying to be the biggest name in Montefalco. And that’s exactly why it might become the most memorable. They’re focused, passionate, and tethered to the essence of what Sagrantino is—and what it could become in the right hands.

If you’re making your way through Umbria, seek out this poetic little powerhouse. Come with questions, leave with answers—and maybe a bottle or two that’ll age as gracefully as the story behind it.

 

Marisa DVari

Marisa D'Vari, DipWSET is founder and publisher of TheLuxuryReport.com. She recently obtained her OIV MSc diploma in Wine Business Management and contributes to Forbes.com, Financial Times, World of Fine Wine, Quarterly Review of Wine, Decanter Robb Report, San Francisco Chronicle, South China Morning Post , and more. She holds the (WSET) diploma, Certified Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers, a Certified Wine Educator through the Society of Wine Educators ... to see it all, please click on bio

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Montefalco Wine Masterclass

After several days of visiting wineries and tasting the native grapes of Montefalco, it was a pleasure to attend the Masterclass called “Contemporary Montefalco” led by Cristina Mercuri DipWSET, held in the Chiostro S. Agostino in Montefalco

The wines in our glasses—Trebbiano Spoletino, Sagrantino, Montefalco Rosso—spoke of place, yes, but also of change. And Cristina’s approach was anything but academic. Rather than set in stone what we were supposed to taste, she laid out the framework—soils, altitudes, exposures—then challenged us to draw our own conclusions.

Montefalco, as she explained, is not one flat zone but a patchwork of microclimates within the DOC and DOCG. The overall climate is moderately continental—warm summers, dry and windy conditions—but, within that, significant variation.

Each of the five communes that make up Montefalco has its own geological rhythm. Some are rocky, some clay-heavy. Chalky soils in the east produce whites with floral lift and higher acidity. Other areas yield bold reds with darker textures and more tannic grip. Geography isn’t background here—it’s choreography.

Can Trebbiano Spoletino grown ten kilometers apart taste completely different? We found out. Cristina poured three white wines blind and told us one was not Trebbiano Spoletino at all. It was a sort of palate test—but more than that, it was a lesson in attentiveness.

Tasting quietly, thoughtfully, informed by her prior explanation, we worked through them. The “impostor” turned out to be Trebbiano d’Abruzzo—bright, fresh, linear—clearly a bit different. That alone explained much of what makes Trebbiano Spoletino so valuable: its ability to express structure, acidity, and depth without losing aromatic nuance. It’s not just a backdrop grape; here, it’s a lead voice.

Later in the tasting came a similar move—a blind red flight featuring several Montefalco Sagrantinos and one ‘secret Syrah’ a wine from the Northern Rhône.

Once again, we were asked to deduce the outlier. What followed was a lively discussion about texture, tannins, mouthfeel. While varietal DNA helps define a grape, winemaking and terroir leave fingerprints too. And to be honest, the Syrah was delicious—elegant, polished—but it didn’t express the Montefalco edge, that inner energy I now associate with Sagrantino.

Sagrantino, native to this region and grown on just 380 hectares, is one of Italy’s deepest reds, known for high tannins and late ripening. In the past, harsh extraction or rushed winemaking sometimes masked its beauty.

Yet Montefalco today is not trying to outpower the world—it’s pivoting. Many producers, including some I visited during the week, are turning to a fresher, finer-grained style. Earlier picks, attentive maceration, longer aging. The wines I tasted confirmed it. Black currant, violet, licorice—yes. But now you find more restraint, more lift, and, in some cases, an almost suede-like tannin texture. Silky, even. Especially in 2017 and 2020, vintages with marked ripeness but enough acidity to hold things in place.

Cristina touched on that too—how vintage and vineyard interact. 2016 and 2019, for example, brought cooler nighttime temperatures, giving higher acidity and aromatics. 2015 still shows the old school: bold, plush, a bit rustic in the best way. All are valid expressions. Montefalco doesn’t need to shed its character to be contemporary—it just needs to embrace its complexity.

And it does.

What made this seminar so valuable is that all of us in the room had just spent days on the ground visiting producers. So these weren’t unfamiliar wines. They were wines we’d tasted at the source, spoken about with winemakers, sometimes even tasted from cask. Having them again here, in this setting, helped tie the thread together. And hearing Cristina narrate the geography and grape logic behind them helped us connect taste to place.

As a wine writer, I’ve seen my share of tasting seminars. Some educate, others feel safe and polished. This one felt alive. Using the “planted surprise” technique—slipping in a non-local wine to keep people sharp—felt just right. It spoke to confidence in the region. “These wines can stand alone,” it said, “but they also stand apart.”

In the end, my strongest takeaways weren’t just about which wines were “best” or most age-worthy. It was the people I met—at Perticaia, Colle Ciocco, Fongoli, Lungarotti—each expressing the identity of Montefalco in their own quiet way. The tasting room at Perticaia, where the team spoke about picking everything by hand. The decades-old Fongoli cellar, still glowing with family life. Matteo from Colle Ciocco, talking about coming home, not leaving.

Montefalco may not be the biggest region. But it’s one of the few that feels this complete—variety without chaos, tradition without resistance to change. The week was well-planned: a mix of small group visits, larger events, and open discussions. But this seminar brought it all home. A portrait of a region in motion.

Marisa DVari

Marisa D'Vari, DipWSET is founder and publisher of TheLuxuryReport.com. She recently obtained her OIV MSc diploma in Wine Business Management and contributes to Forbes.com, Financial Times, World of Fine Wine, Quarterly Review of Wine, Decanter Robb Report, San Francisco Chronicle, South China Morning Post , and more. She holds the (WSET) diploma, Certified Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers, a Certified Wine Educator through the Society of Wine Educators ... to see it all, please click on bio

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Antonelli Winery in Montefalco

Antonelli San Marco is gorgeous, well-established winery in Montefalco who played host for our first formal evening in this quaint wine-producing region.

The evening opened with glasses of sparkling wine from Montefalco, enjoyed under an open sky on the family estate.

What followed was one of the most elegant—and, unexpectedly, entertaining—dinners I had on this trip. A long table was set inside the winery, beautifully arranged right down to the lighting. It felt like a moment suspended outside of time.

Then came a twist: two striking young women floated through the dinner with effortless grace. It didn’t take long to discover that they weren’t models or guests — they were Filippo Antonelli’s twin daughters. They’re now stepping into the family business, working trade fairs, and adding a new generation’s vision to a very historic winery.

Antonelli San Marco is a pillar of the Montefalco region. The family has owned the estate since 1883, making it one of the longest standing wineries in Umbria’s DOCG wine zone. With nearly 190 hectares under its care — 60 of them vineyards, another 13 planted to olive trees — the estate is large, but it doesn’t feel corporate. Everything is kept in-house, from the vineyard to winemaking to bottling. Since 2009, the entire estate has been farmed organically.

Montefalco is best known for its bold, brooding red wine made from the native grape Sagrantino. It’s a grape with structure, tannins, and, in the wrong hands, a fair amount of attitude. At Antonelli San Marco, it’s handled with precision.

If one is lucky enough to walk through their gravity-flow fermentation cellar—designed cleverly underground to minimize energy use and protect the grapes—one would find that gravity replaces pumps during fermentation and racking.

One thing I particularly appreciated during the dinner was the freedom to pour our own wines from the family cellar. Different vintages of Sagrantino and Montefalco Rosso were lined up, with the white wines on ice.

It was a great opportunity to taste the wines at one’s own pace, compare vintages side-by-side, and talk with others at the table about what you were finding in the glass. That kind of self-guided curiosity speaks volumes about their hospitality.

Trebbiano Spoletino, a white grape native to the area between Montefalco and Spoleto, also plays an important role here. It’s one of the most exciting white varieties in Italy right now, and Antonelli’s version is clean, savory, and textural — a great contrast to the structure of their reds. The combination makes a statement: Montefalco isn’t just a one-grape town.

Filippo Antonelli has been running the estate since 1986. Born in Rome, but shaped by these hills, he also manages another family property, Castello di Torre in Pietra, outside the capital. But Montefalco is what anchors the story.

Over five generations, the Antonelli family helped shape both the region and its wines — Filippo himself has served multiple terms as president of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Montefalco, the governing body that helps promote and protect the region’s wines.

What’s notable is how the Antonelli legacy combines long-standing traditions with thoughtful updates. It’s not just about replanting vineyards or expanding cellars — though they’ve done both. It’s about seeing what the land can really offer, and adapting each decision with care.

The hillside vineyards, rich in clay and limestone, benefit from varied elevations and exposures. Some parcels are rocky and shallow, others deeper and richer. All of that shows up in the glass.

Like most producers in Montefalco, they work almost exclusively with native varieties: Sagrantino and Sangiovese for the reds, Trebbiano Spoletino and Grechetto for the whites. Montefalco Rosso, made with Sangiovese as its base, is often the region’s entry point.

Yet it’s the Sagrantino that defines things. Antonelli’s version, aged in oak and then refined in bottle before release, is built for longevity but designed to be understood. It’s deeply Umbrian — earthy, structured, slightly wild — but always driving toward balance.

Beyond wine, Antonelli San Marco also produces olive oil and even raises semi-wild pigs in the woods near the estate, using them for their own cured meat products. Plans are underway to open hospitality soon, meaning future visitors will be able to stay among the olive trees and vines, taste the full range of products, and maybe even join in a cooking class or a truffle hunt.

It’s these layers — history, land, family, and the subtle evolution between them — that give weight to a visit here. Montefalco as a region is increasingly on the radar of wine travelers looking for depth without the crowds, legacy without the performance. If you find yourself in Umbria and want to understand why these wines matter — and why this place carries so much quiet pride — Antonelli San Marco is a good place to start.

 

Marisa DVari

Marisa D'Vari, DipWSET is founder and publisher of TheLuxuryReport.com. She recently obtained her OIV MSc diploma in Wine Business Management and contributes to Forbes.com, Financial Times, World of Fine Wine, Quarterly Review of Wine, Decanter Robb Report, San Francisco Chronicle, South China Morning Post , and more. She holds the (WSET) diploma, Certified Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers, a Certified Wine Educator through the Society of Wine Educators ... to see it all, please click on bio

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Perticaia Winery in Montefalco

Exploring the Soul of Sangrantino at Perticaia

As a wine judge and writer, I travel often. But every so often, a visit stands out—not just for the wine, but for the story behind it. Perticaia, located in the undulating hills outside Montefalco, is one of those places.  

A Legacy Rooted in Love for the Land

Perticaia was founded by Guido Guardigli, a man whose deep respect for Umbria’s land brought him back home with a mission: to revive and reimagine the role of Sagrantino, Montefalco’s bold, native grape.

After years working in agriculture, Guido founded the winery in the early 2000s with one clear intention—to build something with soul, for the future, grounded in authenticity.

The name “Perticaia” itself is a nod to the region’s farming heritage—an old Umbrian word meaning “plough.” And truly, this place feels ploughed from the heart of the land. Today, under the stewardship of Paolo, Guido’s son-in-law, that intention burns brighter than ever.

A Modern Lens on a Mighty Grape

Sagrantino is not for the faint of heart. It’s a tannic beast—inky, brooding, and bursting with identity. But at Perticaia, it’s tamed with finesse and reverence. The winery produces both a Montefalco Rosso—where Sangiovese plays a supporting role to Sagrantino—and a pure Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG that expresses the grape’s full personality in all its wild intensity.

During my tasting, what stood out wasn’t just the power of the wines—but the detail. The Sagrantino here doesn’t just hint at spice, dark cherries, or forest floor—it tells a story.

Each sip builds with clarity and structure, speaking to practiced hands and a deep respect for the grape.

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Marisa DVari

Marisa D'Vari, DipWSET is founder and publisher of TheLuxuryReport.com. She recently obtained her OIV MSc diploma in Wine Business Management and contributes to Forbes.com, Financial Times, World of Fine Wine, Quarterly Review of Wine, Decanter Robb Report, San Francisco Chronicle, South China Morning Post , and more. She holds the (WSET) diploma, Certified Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers, a Certified Wine Educator through the Society of Wine Educators ... to see it all, please click on bio

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Montioni Winery in Montefalco

Montioni: Where Montefalco Heritage Finds Its Modern Voice

As someone who’s been immersed in the wine world for years—judging competitions, walking vineyards from Mendoza to Montalcino—it’s rare to find a producer that feels at once deeply rooted in history and quietly revolutionary. Montioni, a family-run winery just outside the Montefalco walls, is exactly that kind of discovery.

This is not a flashy place. No grand architectural statement. No over-the-top modern tasting room with trending design elements. What you’ll find at Montioni is something far richer: authenticity, a tightly held vision, and a winemaking philosophy that doesn’t just respect tradition—it reinvents it with clarity and intention.

A Family Tradition, Reimagined

The Montioni story is not one of a new venture built on investor bravado or marketing gloss. It’s an honest continuation of a family narrative that reaches back to the early 1970s, when grandfather Amilcare tended to olive trees and vineyards more out of necessity than aspiration. It was a way of life, not a business plan.

Today, that legacy is being refined and expanded by Paolo Montioni, who represents the next generation. Don’t let his easygoing manner fool you—Paolo has built something truly compelling here. With clear vision and tireless dedication, he has transformed the family’s agricultural roots into a precise and promising winery that stands firmly on the map of modern Montefalco producers.

Paolo is not interested in following trends. His aim is subtler: to make wines that speak clearly of origin, vintage, and varietal—especially Sagrantino. He treats his small estate like a living organism: complex, changeable, and deeply deserving of care.

Sagrantino: A Grape with Grit and Grace

Sagrantino is the reason I’m here in Montefalco—this dark, muscular, often misunderstood grape that thrives in this sliver of Umbria. At its best, it has an elegance that emerges slowly, after time and patience. And in Paolo’s hands, you can taste a respect for that arc.

Montioni’s Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG is a study in structure and restraint. Powerful, yes—but not aggressive. The tannins are sculpted, not sandpaper. There’s black fruit, of course—plum skin, blackberry, a touch of dried fig—but there’s also mineral lift, hints of incense, and subtle herbal edges that reveal themselves slowly, like a puzzle coming together.

The Montefalco Rosso—where Sangiovese and Merlot soften Sagrantino’s brooding nature—is elegantly layered and food-friendly. It’s a wine you want to drink now, but not one you’ll forget by next week.

And Montioni isn’t just about grapes. Their extraordinary extra virgin olive oil, cold-pressed from hand-harvested Moraiolo and Frantoio olives, is a must-taste—complex, peppery, and intense, much like the wines.

A Visit to Montioni: Experiences That Go Deeper

When you visit Montioni, you don’t just get a tasting—you get a sense of rhythm, of how life unfolds here in quiet focus. The wine experiences are curated to educate and connect. Guests are welcome into the winery itself, where Paolo or a member of his small team explains not just the winemaking process, but the logic behind every decision: why certain barrels are used, how long the wines stay on the lees, why harvest timing matters more here than in so many other places.

One of the highlights is the vertical tasting flight of Sagrantino. If you’ve ever wondered what this enigmatic grape can become with age, this is your chance. Trying a 2015 alongside a fresher 2019 vintage reveals the grape’s slow evolution—from formidable to captivating.

There’s also a chance to walk the vineyard, weather permitting, and to explore the olive groves that supply the estate’s acclaimed oil. The tour ends with a generous table of local meats, cheeses, and bruschetta, emphasizing that here, wine is not a standalone luxury—it’s a natural companion to daily life.

More of Montioni 

Among the many producers in Montefalco, Montioni stands apart because it doesn’t try to be everything to everyone. It’s a focused estate with a clear sense of purpose. It doesn’t chase scores. It doesn’t over-extract or over-oak to make a louder first impression. Instead, it aims for precision, consistency, and transparent expression of place.

Paolo’s commitment to low yields, sustainable practices, and minimal intervention is not a marketing slogan—it’s how he makes wine. And over time, that quiet integrity shows in the bottle. These are wines that earn your attention through nuance rather than novelty.

Final Thoughts

There’s a kind of stillness at Montioni—a grounded energy that reflects both the landscape and the people who shape it. It feels traditional without being stuck in time, progressive without losing its soul.

For wine lovers who seek more than just flavor—who look for meaning behind the glass, for a story they can taste as much as hear—Montioni is well worth seeking out. The wines tell the tale of a region coming into its own, led by those who listen carefully to the vines and are unafraid to let them speak with their own clear voice.

If you’re headed to Montefalco, add Montioni to your list—not because it’s flashy, but because it’s real. And as every serious wine lover knows, real never goes out of style.

 

Marisa DVari

Marisa D'Vari, DipWSET is founder and publisher of TheLuxuryReport.com. She recently obtained her OIV MSc diploma in Wine Business Management and contributes to Forbes.com, Financial Times, World of Fine Wine, Quarterly Review of Wine, Decanter Robb Report, San Francisco Chronicle, South China Morning Post , and more. She holds the (WSET) diploma, Certified Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers, a Certified Wine Educator through the Society of Wine Educators ... to see it all, please click on bio

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Briziarelli Winery in Montefalco

Briziarelli: A Contemporary Vision Shaped by Heritage

There’s something quietly stirring in Montefalco—something that blends tradition with vision in a way that feels both respectful and boldly forward-thinking. At Briziarelli, that balance is beautifully realized in every corner of their winery, every glass poured, and, perhaps most meaningfully, in the spirit of innovation that shapes their day-to-day.

I arrived at Briziarelli on a golden morning that softened the hills around me in that distinctly Umbrian light—diffuse, warm, gently glowing. Even before I stepped into the winery, there was a certain clarity in the air, as if the architecture itself was signaling that this would be a place where ideas are taken seriously.

And indeed, they are.

Deep Roots, Bold Vision

The Briziarelli family’s roots in Umbria reach back to the 20th century, but their modern-era involvement in winemaking began with a singular goal: to contribute meaningfully to Montefalco’s winemaking heritage without imitating what had already been done. That guiding principle led to the founding of the Briziarelli winery in the early 2000s—though “founded” feels almost too clinical. In truth, it was envisioned.

Today, under the direction of the younger generation of the Briziarelli family, the winery channels a unique synergy between agricultural wisdom and architectural precision. The entire facility is a reflection of that: linear, sustainable, elegant in its simplicity. It’s a place that encourages contemplation—of land, of grape, of grape as land.

And it’s impossible to talk about Briziarelli without talking about their commitment to Sagrantino.

Sagrantino, Sculpted with Purpose

It always returns to Sagrantino, doesn’t it? That irrepressibly structured varietal that can be brash or breathtaking depending on the hands involved. At Briziarelli, it’s sculpted with clarity and foresight. This isn’t a winery chasing concentration for its own sake. Instead, the team focuses on precision, elegance, and longevity in the bottle.

Their Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG is a wine of complexity and balance—a disciplined structure framing dark plum, kaffir lime leaf, crushed herbs, and subtle cocoa. It’s nuanced but not shy. What I found compelling was its purity—a kind of lucid expression of the grape’s savory depths without ever tipping into excess.

In the Montefalco Rosso DOC and Rosso Riserva, Sangiovese and Merlot round out Sagrantino’s force, softening the mid-palate and drawing the wines toward versatility. These are extremely well-crafted blends, offering aromatics that invite and tannins that structure without overwhelming.

Every bottle here feels deliberate. Each vintage adds a new line to an evolving dialogue between grape and grower.

Visiting Briziarelli: Precision with Heart

Wine lovers visiting Briziarelli will find a state-of-the-art winery that doesn’t just impress visually—it communicates the winery’s meticulous approach. There’s a rewarding clarity to the way the story is told during a tasting—how the team walks you through their philosophy, the unique features of Montefalco’s terroir, and their thoughtful approach to maturation and aging.

Tasting experiences are customized and often feature verticals or side-by-sides that illustrate how the wines evolve with time and bottle age. This is especially interesting with Sagrantino, which again reveals its transformational depth when given just a few extra years to evolve.

The tasting room opens out to a panoramic view of the vineyards and rolling valleys—a reminder that, here, modern lines and old soils are working in harmony. Many guests pair their tastings with carefully curated regional bites that highlight Umbria’s culinary traditions, from cured meats and truffle bruschetta to aged Pecorino that sings beside the Rosso Riserva.

Walking the grounds, there is a sense of space and focus—of detail attended to. Even the landscaping around the winery feels considered, as if the architecture and agriculture were having a quiet, mutual conversation.

An Enduring Impression

What stayed with me, more than any single sip or sight, was Briziarelli’s conviction. The winery has carved out a clear voice in a region where history runs deep—and they’ve done so with respectful innovation, with sleekness that doesn’t erase soul.

Briziarelli is contributing significantly to Montefalco’s evolution—not by breaking with tradition, but by interpreting it anew. Their work reaffirms that great wine doesn’t always have to shout. Sometimes, it simply needs room to speak in its own clear, composed tone.

For Wine Lovers Planning a Visit

If you’re exploring Montefalco and seeking a wine experience that marries tradition with artistry, and polished hospitality with depth, you’ll find a rewarding stop at Briziarelli. It’s a place that shows what can happen when careful thought meets honest ambition—a winery of clean lines, expressive wines, and enduring intentions.

Whether you’re drawn to Sagrantino’s bold signature or simply curious about the next generation of winemakers shaping this storied region, Briziarelli will invite you to slow down and listen—glass in hand—to where Montefalco is headed.

One interesting thing I noticed is a fun new approach to the traditional sweet Sagrantino wine. Instead of waiting for people to serve or drink it in the “traditional” way (after dinner) the new approach is to use it as a base for cocktails for certain occasions. Toward that end, there’s talk of holding a competition for bartenders. 

  

Marisa DVari

Marisa D'Vari, DipWSET is founder and publisher of TheLuxuryReport.com. She recently obtained her OIV MSc diploma in Wine Business Management and contributes to Forbes.com, Financial Times, World of Fine Wine, Quarterly Review of Wine, Decanter Robb Report, San Francisco Chronicle, South China Morning Post , and more. She holds the (WSET) diploma, Certified Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers, a Certified Wine Educator through the Society of Wine Educators ... to see it all, please click on bio

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A Century of Rioja: Tradition Rooted, Identity Evolving

In 1925, Rioja became Spain’s first official Denominación de Origen (DO). This formalized what wine lovers had known all along.

That this river-crossed land of rolling hills, diverse soils, and ancient winemaking tradition was special.

But Rioja’s story didn’t precicesly begin in 1925. Nor has it remained frozen there.

Archaeological evidence confirms that the region has been cultivating wine since at least 200 BC, when the Romans took note of its potential.

By the 16th century, Rioja’s producers were already enacting the earliest forms of quality regulation.

Then, in the 19th century, visionary winemakers imported French wine-aging techniques like barrel maturation — a move that would forever define Rioja’s character and reputation.

In many ways, the region’s 100-year-old DO status is less a starting line than a mile marker in a much longer, more fluid journey.

This was the central idea behind the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter in New York, a high-energy showcase capped off by a masterclass dedicated to Rioja’s past, present, and dynamic future.

Held at Manhatta Restaurant, a striking space perched atop 28 Liberty Street in Manhattan’s Financial District, the class was co-led by Master Sommelier Jonathan Eichholz and Decanter regional editor Ines Salpico.

I’ve been to many wine seminars held here, exclusively for the wine press. At these events, seasoned palates usually dominate and engagement tends to be muted.

But here, on this gray-skied Saturday, the crowd was leaning in — curious, asking questions, soaking up Rioja’s history and its stylistic shifts. I’ve rarely seen so much excitement and anticipation in a tasting.

The Masterclass explored how Rioja, a Spanish wine region steeped in tradition, continues to evolve to meet changing consumer preferences, climatic challenges, and generational turnover among producers. In other words: Rioja may be 100 years old as a DO, but it’s not sitting still.

“There’s a reason Rioja has remained relevant for so long,” a presenter observed. “It’s always been willing to challenge its own assumptions, while preserving its core identity.”

One of those core identities is a sense of stylistic integrity — a Rioja-ness that most wine drinkers can recognize.

That often comes from a structure gently molded by aging in American oak barrels, allowing for softer textures and those signature notes of fruit, cedar, and spice. These “textbook” wines, the kind that earned Rioja global renown, are very much still being made — and still prized for their longevity and grace in the cellar.

But alongside them, a new generation of producers — and evolving demands from global markets — are shaping a fresher face of Rioja. Vibrant, approachable styles are gaining ground. French oak is making increasing appearances in the cellars. And more voices, including younger winemakers settling into the region, are bringing reinvention to the forefront.

What struck me was the way the speakers described this phase less as a stylistic rupture and more as a nuanced evolution — one rooted in both response and respect. The sense I got was that Rioja isn’t pivoting away from tradition, but expanding the scope of what its tradition allows.

I first noticed this excitement when I spoke with winery representatives in the Rioja section of wines at the Decanter walk-around tasting.

My question to each was what questions the guests were asking about Rioja. According to the representatives, maturation of Rioja wine was of great interest. Both in terms of how long wines stay in barrel or bottle, and how they develop over time. Many visitors were curious to understand not just how Rioja tastes, but why it tastes the way it does.

Enrique Olmedo, commercial director for Latin America, spoke about the opportunity he sees in the U.S. market — especially for high-quality wines in the $20 range. Oscar Alvarez of Martínez Lacuesta noted that tasters were drawn to the visual language of heritage: the classic Rioja label still commands attention. And at David A. Cascione’s table, guests were more interested in the winery’s story than in technical minutiae,,

That idea echoes some of what was discussed in the seminar when Rioja was called an iconic wine in that these wines transcend trends while remaining relevant to consumers in daily life.

Rioja’s strength seems to lie in this balance — fine wine that invites aging but doesn’t demand fuss; structure and elegance married to generosity and charm.

It would be easy for a region with over 2,000 years of viticultural history to stand on its past. But Rioja, as this centennial moment reminds us, is constantly writing new chapters. One hundred years into its official identity, it is still exploring its possibilities — and inviting us along to taste.

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Hanger 14 En Primeur Bordeaux Tasting

 Hangar 14

Recently I had the pleasure of attending the Bordeaux En Primeur trade tastings at Hangar 14.

This is a soaring, light-filled space with panoramic views of the Garonne River that beautifully framed our visit.

The morning event was impeccably organized, with clearly marked appellations overhead and ample space to walk the aisles. The small tables spread about the room were much appreciated for notetaking.

Union Des Grands Crus producers across every region were present to pour wine and answer questions from the international press and trade.

At the Bordeaux En Primeur tasting at Hangar 14, each visit to each booth offered a rare glimpse into the human stories behind the vintage and the people behind the great Bordeaux châteaux.

The morning event was impeccably organized, with clearly marked appellations overhead and ample space to walk the aisles. The small tables spread about the room were much appreciated for note taking.

Greeting Familiar Faces

It was a rare privilege to exchange greetings with estate owners or estate managers at the table to discuss the vintage.

Wine Lovers Can Replicate This Experience

For those outside the wine trade who wish for a Bordeaux experience of their own, read on.

The Weekend des Grands Crus organized by the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux offers a rare opportunity to replicate this experience with added glamour.

 

Weekend des Grands Crus 

For the 19th consecutive year, the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux is organizing the Weekend des Grands Crus, an exceptional event bringing together wine enthusiasts from all over the world.

Punctuated by several highlights, this weekend will be marked by the Grand Tasting of the 2022 vintage, on Saturday June 14 at Hangar 14.   

Tickets are not yet on sale, but here is the web page 

 

Marisa DVari

Marisa D'Vari, DipWSET is founder and publisher of TheLuxuryReport.com. She recently obtained her OIV MSc diploma in Wine Business Management and contributes to Forbes.com, Financial Times, World of Fine Wine, Quarterly Review of Wine, Decanter Robb Report, San Francisco Chronicle, South China Morning Post , and more. She holds the (WSET) diploma, Certified Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers, a Certified Wine Educator through the Society of Wine Educators ... to see it all, please click on bio

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En Primeur Bordeaux

En Primeur Bordeaux Welcome Party

Each spring, En Primeur week in Bordeaux signals one of this fine wine region’s most important calendar events.

This year, the welcome evening was hosted by Château Figeac and orchestrated by the member-created Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (UGCB).

It was delightful to revisit this classic Saint-Émilion estate. I’d been fortunate enough to dine here more than ten years ago, where I had sat across the table from Madame Manoncourt herself.

That long-ago dinner reinforced the values and culture of “classic Bordeaux” and allowed me to taste some of Figeac’s library wines.

At last week’s event, Madame Manoncourt was as elegant and well-spoken as she had been during my earlier visit. She was quite gracious as she sincerely thanked international journalists and the trade for their support during her welcoming address.

By her side was Francois-Xavier Maroteaux, the incoming UGCB president. He thanked his team for their hard work in planning this activity-intense week. 

En Primeur Bordeaux Welcome Party Wines

Guests entered Château Figeac through the gorgeous new vat room, where the wines are fermented before the aging process.

Decorated with flowers, it was elegant enough to hold a black-tie soirée.

Imperial-Sized Bottle of Château Figeac 2009

Then, the stairs led up to a glass-enclosed outdoor space where guests could choose from a wide array of classic vintage wines from the UGCB châteaux.

Headlining these wines were several Imperial-sized bottles of the excellent 2009 vintage from Château Figeac itself. Well-balanced, savory, with a long finish that attests to its ability to further improve with age, it was quite extraordinary.

An Imperial holds six liters, or eight bottles. This size was more than enough for everyone at the event to have a delicious taste of this classic vintage.

The Party. The People. The Savory “Bites”

A talented band played upbeat music during this welcome party, enlivening the atmosphere.

Servers passed hot and cold hors d’œuvres, yet guests could also choose from some very creative “finger food” offered at various tables.

Though I loved the elaborate cheese table, a favorite was a vegetarian corner. Here, a chef with a giant French toque spent serious time carving shapes out of vegetables—literally as pretty as a picture.

The Château Figeac UGCB Event

Aside from the elegance of the party, the biggest treat was the opportunity to greet and thank many of the château owners I’ve visited for this En Primeur event over the last 15 years.

En Primeur Bordeaux: The New Vintage

Large, structured tasting events—like the vintage presentation in New York earlier this year, and especially the official vintage tasting event in Bordeaux at Hangar 14 that kicks off En Primeur week—are the primary places to taste the wines of the new vintage.

Yet the “behind-the-scenes” tastings of these wines are incredibly valuable and treasured.

Over the years, I was fortunate enough to have a personal, owner-led tour of individual vineyards and even experience daily château life as a guest at their château for dinner or for a short stay.

During these visits, I was able to experience the evolution of each château’s wines—and also the evolution of the owners’ offspring, from little kids to young adults, ready to take their place as the new leaders of their family estate.

Familiar Faces

Entering the party, I was able to greet Véronique Sanders of Château Haut-Bailly, and her husband Alexander Van Beek of Château Giscours.

Nearby were Céline Villars-Foubet and Jean Merlaut, co-owners of Château Chasse-Spleen and Château Gruaud Larose. I have very warm memories of spending a few days with this charming couple at their châteaux, in addition to the high quality of their wines.

During my visit, Céline served as the classical model for Bordeaux hospitality—with Champagne before dinner, many vintages of Château Chasse-Spleen during dinner, and digestifs after dinner.

I also enjoyed a short conversation with Lilian Barton Sartorius of Château Léoville Barton and Château Langoa Barton.
Though very down-to-earth, this dynamic woman represents one of the few founding families that still own and manage their classified estates across generations.

Lilian and I discussed the tour UGCB château owners will make to Asia. I had glimpsed the schedule that would take them on a roadshow to present the new vintage, stopping in what seemed like every single major city.

The scheduled tour looked incredibly exhausting on paper. As a journalist, I’ve been on many programs where the daily schedule meant a 9 a.m. start, with the day of visits ending well after midnight.

Yet here are the château owners, presenting the wines themselves to collectors, journalists, and the Asian wine trade—instead of sending an export manager in their place.

In my experience, Bordeaux’s UGCB château owners are extremely hands-on, eagerly accepting the responsibilities that have been handed to them from previous generations or that they have orchestrated themselves.

The list of welcome, familiar faces of the château owners I greeted would exceed the word length of this article, but notably included Olivier Bernard—ever charismatic—present both as the owner of Domaine de Chevalier and in his role as president of Les Crus Classés de Graves.

I also said hello to several members of the Lurton family—a family name that threads through Bordeaux in multiple directions.

Then again I was able to greet Count Stephan von Neipperg, owner of Château Canon-La Gaffelière. I remember when I first met him around 2010 and how he impressed me with his elegant ascot and double-breasted blazer.

Then I was doubly impressed when I tasted the elegance and finesse of his wines. Each year since that visit, he’s sent me a delightful Christmas card with a picture of his family and handwritten signatures from them all.

These cards have become treasures I’ve saved and often regard as emblems of the evolution of Bordeaux: as a cherished wine region, and of the personal relationships I’ve built over time.  

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Underscoring the "Human Side" of En Primeur Week

Each of the UGCB château owners plays a key role in the success of En Primeur week. It’s not just about the vintage—because each vintage is different.

Each year presents the opportunity to reinforce the value of Bordeaux as a fine wine region—a “collectible wine” and even a financial asset… yet also a wine with a million stories behind it.

In each social interaction, I hear a new story, a new facet of the family’s history. Over the past nearly two decades, this has become a tapestry of experiences that has allowed me to understand the region in a way that transcends organized press events, interviews, and formal structured tastings.

 

En Primeur Bordeaux: More About the UGCB

More About the UGCB

Founded in 1973, the UGCB’s mission was to serve as a gateway from the region’s historic châteaux—classified since 1855—to the wine-consuming public and the trade.

It brings together more than 130 of Bordeaux’s top classified and equivalent-level estates from across the Left and Right Banks to promote the wines and the region’s core story.

It does so through global tastings, export events, and market education. But the most immersive lens is right here during En Primeur week. During this week, the wines are open, the producers are present, and the vintage is launched. Like the tone and format of this welcome evening.

To Conclude

This welcome night, though less public than the famous verticals and classification walk-arounds that follow, is where the tone is set. It’s the Union saying: “Let En Primeur Week begin.”

And tonight, it’s also the hosting Château Figeac opening their doors and generously showcasing both the cultural and the vinous history of Bordeaux at its finest.

 

Marisa DVari

Marisa D'Vari, DipWSET is founder and publisher of TheLuxuryReport.com. She recently obtained her OIV MSc diploma in Wine Business Management and contributes to Forbes.com, Financial Times, World of Fine Wine, Quarterly Review of Wine, Decanter Robb Report, San Francisco Chronicle, South China Morning Post , and more. She holds the (WSET) diploma, Certified Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers, a Certified Wine Educator through the Society of Wine Educators ... to see it all, please click on bio

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