Colle Mora Sagrantino
What a wonderful visit to Cantina Colle Mora in Montefalco, to explore their winery during the event called Anteprima Sagrantino.
This is an annual festival in Montefalco, celebrating the Sagrantino grape …
… a grape that needs skilled, talented hands to coax out their flavors.
Simone Tabarrini, co-owner with his wife Michela, grew up on the property with his parents, owners of a large, successful Montefalco farm.
Like many families in Montefalco, his father grew grapes for their own family use. From a young age Simone helped his father make the wine. Then he ventured out to other producers to perfect his skills as a winemaker.
After he and Michela married, they decided to plant vines in 2003. The year 2008 was their first commercial vintage.
From the very start, Simone and Michela were committed to producing wines that reflect the unique terroir of the Montefalco region. Their 8 hectares are distinguished by rocky soils and optimal sun exposure.
Colle Mora Barrel Room
Michela was quick to explain that they use sustainable farming practices and hand-harvest their grapes to ensure that they are of the highest quality. Michela also explained that they do everything by themselves, even the harvest, to ensure that the very best berries make it into their wine.
The couple also use traditional winemaking techniques, such as natural fermentation and aging in oak barrels, to ensure that their wines are expressive and complex.
As I tasted through their range of white and red wines, it was clear to detect the high quality in each glass.
When Michela poured me her “natural wine” – a Merlot produced without sulfites, I was curious to try it. Could it match the quality of her other excellent wines?
This Merlot, called “Libero” (meaning free) was rich, balanced by zesty acidity, and absolutely delicious.
I was also impressed by their Trebbiano Spolettino, a white grape variety grown only in Umbria, particularly in and around the townships of Spoleto – which in 2011 gained its own DOC status – and Montefalco.
What really impressed me is how well this delicious white wine can age. We tasted the present vintage, then a 2017. Comparing the two wines side by side, I saw that the light gold color and fresh notes of pineapple gave way to a deeper gold color with heightened aromas and flavors of butter and honey.
Truffle (in eggs or pasta) would be a great match for this wine.
I found their 2019 Montefalco Rosso delicious – it is a typical blend of 60% Sangiovese 30% Merlot and 10% Sagrantino. Producers have some leeway with regard to the maximum and minimum of these grapes, yet the base must be 60% Sangiovese and the wine must have at least 10% Sagrantino. Up to 30% of another red can be used, with Merlot or a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon serving as popular choices.
This wine is aged in French oak barrels for 12 months, which gives it a complex flavor profile and a silky texture. On the nose, the wine has aromas of red cherry, raspberry, and spice, with hints of vanilla and oak. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied and well-balanced, with soft tannins and a long, smooth finish.
Michela says she likes working with Merlot, saying that it gives the wine added elegance.
The Sagrantino: Bringing out the Big Guns
Simone and Michela tasted me on three vintages of their flagship Sagrantino, the 2017, the 2016, and the 2015.
Each wine was very unique, which brings out the importance of looking at vintage notes when purchasing Sangrantino.
These wines were aged in French oak barrels for at least 18 months, which gives it a rich, complex flavor profile. On the nose, the wine has intense aromas of black cherry, plum, and vanilla, with hints of leather and tobacco. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and rich, with firm tannins and a long, persistent finish.
My brief notes are below:
2017 – lighter, more “feminine” tannins, vibrant acidity, velvet structures
2016 – very fresh acidity, corduroy-textured tannins, a good balance of fruit
2015 – intense flavor, rugged tannins, fresh acidity.
Final Thoughts
Whether you are a seasoned wine enthusiast or a casual drinker, a visit to Cantina Colle Mora or taste of their delicious wines is sure to be a memorable experience.
