Iconic California Sparkling Wine
Are you curious about the vivid histories of premium California sparkling wine?
Recently I was able to attend a unique masterclass exploring the evolution of California luxury cuvées.
The sessions were moderated by Laura Maniec Master Sommelier, owner of Corkbuzz in Manhattan.
On the panel were CEO Remi Cohen of Domaine Carneros, Arnaud Weyrich Vice president and winemaker of Roederer Estate, and Hugh Davis, President and vintner of Schramsberg Estate.
California Sparkling Wine Regions
As a long-time wine journalist and California native who frequently visits the sparkling wine region here, I thought I knew all there was to know about the region and its wine.
But this Masterclass offered tidbits of information I hadn’t heard, such as the rocky road Schramsberg had to profitability in the early days, and the fact that Arnaud Weyrich first worked for Roederer as an intern and came back years later as winemaker. Remi Cohen had her own amusing stories, including that her mother made the assumption that when she explained she’d be working at a ‘chateau,’ her mother thought she might meet a duke or baron.
Yet aside for hearing these colorful stories and better understanding the personalities of these iconic producers, the Masterclass offered the opportunity to taste these iconic storied vintage wines.
Master Sommeliers and Master of Wine Interest
The audience, including a surprising number of experts who included those with a Master of Wine or Master Sommelier diploma, had the unique opportunity to explore the evolution of these luxury cuvées.
The tasting spanned three decades, showcasing the progression and refinement of these wines over time. The lineup included vintages from the 1990s, 2000s, and current releases, each reflecting the nuances of their respective eras.
California Sparkling Wine Tasting
The vintages presented held up very well over the passage of time, showcasing the age-ability and quality of California Wine.
Entrepreneurial Spirit
The journey of California’s sparkling wines is marked by a blend of American entrepreneurial spirit and French winemaking expertise. American families, such as the Davies with Schramsberg (established in 1965), laid the groundwork for high-quality sparkling wine production.
Later, French-owned houses like Roederer Estate (founded in 1982) and Domaine Carneros by Taittinger (established in 1987) brought with them centuries-old winemaking traditions, enriching the local industry with their deep understanding of méthode champenoise and vineyard management.
Schramsberg: The Pioneers of California Sparkling Wine
Founded in 1965, Schramsberg has a storied history as one of the pioneers of California sparkling wine. The Davies family has been at the forefront of the industry, championing the use of traditional methods and emphasizing the importance of terroir. Schramsberg’s J. Schram, a blend of primarily Chardonnay with a touch of Pinot Noir, is a testament to their commitment to quality.
This cuvée is known for its rich, sumptuous foam and concentrated flavors, often featuring notes of baked apple, brioche, and a touch of nuttiness from extended aging on the lees. The 2014 J. Schram Noirs, in particular, showcases the brand’s mastery in blending and aging, offering a complex profile with vibrant acidity and a refined mousse.
Roederer Estate: A French Heritage in Anderson Valley
Roederer Estate, an offshoot of the renowned Champagne Louis Roederer, brought a piece of French winemaking excellence to California’s Anderson Valley.
Established in 1982, the estate quickly gained recognition for its high-quality sparkling wines, made with a meticulous approach reminiscent of their Champagne roots. L’Ermitage, their luxury cuvée, is crafted with a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, sometimes with a touch of Pinot Meunier. The 2017 vintage of L’Ermitage, for instance, impresses with its plush mousse and intense minerality. The inclusion of reserve wines aged in oak casks adds a layer of complexity, while the wine’s balanced acidity and rich texture make it a standout in the Californian sparkling wine landscape.
Domaine Carneros: Elegance Inspired by Taittinger
Domaine Carneros, founded by the Champagne house Taittinger in 1987, has become synonymous with elegance and refinement. Nestled in the cool-climate Carneros region, the estate specializes in traditional méthode champenoise sparkling wines. Le Rêve, their top-tier Blanc de Blancs, is made exclusively from Chardonnay.
The 2016 Le Rêve Blanc de Blancs is a prime example, offering concentrated lemon zest flavors, a moderate foam, and a bright, fresh acidity. Aged for a minimum of seven years on the lees, this wine exhibits a delicate minerality and a refined finish, making it a perfect expression of the estate’s dedication to quality.
A Unique Terroir and Climate
One of the distinguishing factors of California sparkling wines is the diverse terroir and climate of the region. Unlike the chalky soils of Champagne, California’s vineyards are characterized by a variety of soil types and microclimates, particularly in cool-climate regions such as Anderson Valley, Carneros, and Marin. These conditions contribute to the distinct flavor profiles and structural elements found in the wines. The coastal influence, combined with the meticulous vineyard management practices of these producers, results in sparkling wines with a unique balance of freshness, acidity, and complexity.
The Importance of Tradition and Innovation
While rooted in tradition, these Californian sparkling wine producers also embrace innovation. Schramsberg’s use of a wide range of vineyard sites and Roederer Estate’s incorporation of oak-aged reserve wines are examples of how these houses blend traditional methods with innovative techniques. Domaine Carneros, with its focus on sustainable farming and meticulous winemaking, continues to push the boundaries of quality and sustainability in the industry.
A Celebration of Excellence
California’s sparkling wine industry has come a long way since its inception, now standing shoulder to shoulder with some of the finest sparkling wine regions in the world.
California Sparkling Wine: Final Thoughts
The masterclass and subsequent tasting highlighted the exceptional craftsmanship and dedication of Schramsberg, Roederer Estate, and Domaine Carneros. These producers not only honor the traditions of sparkling winemaking but also contribute to the ongoing evolution of the category.
Their luxury cuvées—J. Schram, L’Ermitage, and Le Rêve—are not just wines; they are expressions of the passion, expertise, and innovation that define California sparkling wine. As the industry continues to grow, these iconic producers remain at the forefront, crafting sparkling wines that are celebrated both domestically and internationally.
