Timeless Vernaccia Wine
Timeless Vernaccia of San Gimignano
This title also served as the name of Gabrieli Gorelli’ MW (Master of Wine) presentation to international journalists and wine trade professionals attending the Anteprime 2023 in Tuscany.
The title reflects the timeless style of these long-lived wines, and also the walled Medieval city of San Gimignano itself.
The Vernaccia Grape
Vernaccia is a grape variety that has a long and fascinating history in the San Gimignano region of Italy. This white grape is the star of the region’s renowned Vernaccia di San Gimignano wine, which is celebrated for its crisp acidity and mineral notes.
The origins of the Vernaccia grape remain somewhat shrouded in mystery. Some believe that the Etruscans brought the grape to the San Gimignano area, known for their sophisticated winemaking techniques.
Others argue that the grape has been grown in the region since Roman times. Regardless of its origins, the Vernaccia grape has been cultivated in the San Gimignano area for centuries.
One of the earliest written records of Vernaccia di San Gimignano dates back to the 13th century. At that time the wine was already famous and highly valued, even earning a mention in Dante’s Divine Comedy. The poem describes the wine’s exceptional quality, noting that it is fit for a king.
Throughout the centuries, Vernaccia di San Gimignano remained an important wine in the region, although its popularity waned somewhat during the 20th century.
Redisovery of Vernaccia
In the 1960s, a group of local winemakers made a concerted effort to revive the wine’s reputation. They established a consortium to oversee the production of Vernaccia di San Gimignano and set strict standards for its production. These efforts paid off, and today Vernaccia di San Gimignano is recognized as one of Italy’s finest white wines.
The unique terroir of the San Gimignano region contributes to the quality of Vernaccia di San Gimignano. The area’s hilly landscape, combined with its Mediterranean climate, provides ideal growing conditions for the grape. The soils are diverse, but mostly rich in limestone and clay, imparting minerality to the wine.
San Gimignano
Thanks to the efforts of local winemakers in the 1960s, Vernaccia di San Gimignano has regained its place as one of Italy’s most prized white wines.
The Masterclass: Timeless Vernaccia Wine
The tasting took place in the Sala di Dante in the Palazzo Comunale, San Gimignano. This large reception hall is named for the noted poet Dante Alighieri who visited San Gimignano in 1300 as an ambassador of the Florentine Republic.
In his presentation, Mr. Gorelli spoke about each wine and then invited the producer to say a few words about the winery’s history, terroir, and method of production.
The Vernaccia Tasting
1. Il Colombaio di Santa Chiara Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Campo cello Pieve 2018
This is a rich, saline wine very pungent with tropical notes (mango, papaya) and a smokey character redolent of Chablis.
2. Fornacelle Vernaccia di San Gimigignano DOCG Riserva Fiona 2018.
This is a highly structured wine with some vanilla resulting from aging in French oak.
3. Guicciardini Strozzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva 2017
This wine is marked by acacia aromas and flavors, as well as notes of honey, lychee, and other tropical fruit.
4. Factorial San Donato Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Riserva Benedetto 2016
This is a delicious mineral-driven wine marketed by aromas and flavor of fresh-cut line and salt.
5. Factorial Poggio Alloro Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Riserva Le Mandorle 2016
The wine is a combination of two vineyards, one aged over forty years and the other younger. The wine is marked by slight aromas of almonds and also petrol and citrus.
6. Cappella Sant’Andrea Clara Stella 2015
A delicious golden hued wine with refreshing acidity and citrus notes.
7. Casale Falchini Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Riserva Vigno a Solatio 2015
Grapes had been planted in a vineyard that faces southwest to receive the most sunlight. The wine was aged in French oak, resulted in a wine with fruit weight and vanilla notes.
8. Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Vigna Santa Margherita 2014
Gold colored and delicious with vibrant acidity.
9. La Lastra Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Riserva 2014
Very balanced with notes of spring flowers and acacia, very balanced.
10. Tollena Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Riserva Signorina Vittoria 2011
Delicious wine marked by notes of ginger and spice, honey and fennel.
11. Il Palagione Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Hydra 2007
This wine is marked by an almost pulsing acidity and a high level of structural phenolic components.
12. Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG Carato 1997
This is a delicious wine from a ripe and generous vintage.
Preview of Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2023
After the tasting of the aged wines, journalist could taste the new Vernaccia vintages, made available in a seated tasting with sommelier service, and also in a more casual walkaround tasting style where one could converse with the producer.
Dinner with Vernaccia Producers at Le Stella Restaurant
This dinner was a great way to meet producers and literally “break bread.”
