Visiting Nicosia’s Monte Gorna Vineyards
It was such a pleasure to be escorted to Monte Gorna, one of the most prestigious acquisitions of the renowned Nicosia winery, by the Nicosia family.
On Monte Gorna, several members of the Nicosia team accompanied us journalists on a vineyard walk. These Nicosia executives pointed out the dramatic elevation of Monte Gorna and the organic vineyards that define this volcanic paradise.
During the visit, the air was crisp. The sweeping views of blue skies and soaring birds set the perfect scene for our tour. It was an amazing transformation, considering that just five minutes earlier at the Nicosia showroom on the flatlands, the air was grey and wet with rain.
As we walked through the vineyards, I could see that the grapes were ripening for the mid-September harvest. I couldn’t resist tasting a few of the grapes straight from the vine. They tasted sweet and juicy. I was mindful that soon, they would be transformed into some of the finest wines this region offers.
During the tour, I discovered that Monte Gorna had been farmed for over a few centuries for its prized grapes. After the devastation of phylloxera and then the world wars, the vineyards had been forgotten. But starting a quarter century ago, these vineyards and others around Sicily are now experiencing a vibrant resurgence.
More Details About The Monte Gorna Vineyard
Monte Gorna is one of the crown jewels of Nicosia’s vineyards, located in the municipality of Trecastagni, at the foot of one of Mount Etna’s many extinct craters.
The vineyard sits at an altitude of 700 to 750 meters, with a south-east exposure that allows for plenty of sunlight and ideal growing conditions. The unique microclimate with its large diurnal temperature swings (sometimes up to 30°C between day and night during the growing season), plays a key role in shaping the complex flavors of the wines.
The soil at Monte Gorna, composed of volcanic ash and small pumice stones called “ripiddu,” is highly rich in minerals like potassium. This volcanic soil offers excellent drainage, which is crucial for the vines’ health and grape quality.
Nicosia has carefully restructured and replanted the lava terraces at Monte Gorna with native varieties, adhering to organic practices to ensure the highest quality wines. Some of the standout wines from this vineyard include:
- Etna Bianco Monte Gorna Vecchie Viti: Made from Carricante and Catarratto, this white wine reflects the minerality and freshness of the volcanic soil.
- Etna Rosso Riserva Monte Gorna Vecchie Viti: Produced from Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, this red wine showcases the intensity and complexity that Etna reds are famous for.
- Etna Rosato Sosta Tre Santi: A rosé with bright acidity and red fruit notes, perfect for summer sipping.
The Surprise "Sparkling Tasting" on Monte Gorna
After the vineyard tour, we guests enjoyed a surprise sparking tasting on the top of Monte Gorna. Two wines were service.
One was the Spumante Carricante Brut “Sosta Tre Santi” DOC. This wine is made by Carricante grapes cultivated on volcanic soils for the collection “Sosta Tre Santi” and it rests for 18 months in bottle.
The other was FÍLICI Etna Spumante DOC from Gumina Nicola. This wine was made using the traditional production method from Nerello Mascalese grapes. The still wine rested on the lees for over 24 months with strict manual remouage. Zero Dosage and topping up with the same spumante. This wine had excellent structure and persistence, great freshness and elegance.
The Mountain Top Tasting Experience
After the sparkling wine surprise reception, we had a formal, structured wine of many of the delicious Nicosia wines from its holdings in other Mount Etna viticultural areas in the tasting room.
Though the interior was quite modern, the rough-hewn interior still looks like the vineyard shelter it had been in former centuries.
The History and Philosophy of Nicosia Winery
Nicosia’s journey into winemaking dates back to Francesco Nicosia who opened the family’s first wine shop on the eastern slopes of Mount Etna in Trecastagni in 1898.
At that time, Etna wines were already esteemed across Europe for their mineral-rich, “volcanic” character. Over the years, the family business has been passed down through generations, each adding new layers of innovation and growth.
In the late 20th century, Carmelo Nicosia, the current head of the family business, brought the winery into a new era. With a focus on expanding and modernizing their vineyards and facilities. He transformed the family winery into one of Sicily’s leading producers. Today, his sons, Francesco and Graziano, and a team of talented young professionals like enologist Maria Carella join him. Together, the team is dedicated to combining tradition with modern winemaking practices.
Nicosia’s philosophy centers on producing high-quality wines while fully respecting the environment. The winery champions native Sicilian grape varieties like Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, Carricante, and Catarratto, as well as select international cultivars that thrive in the Sicilian climate.
Careful attention is given to every step of the winemaking process, from selecting the best grapes to employing sustainable farming techniques. The winery strives to represent the very best of Sicilian enology while looking forward to a bright future.
Vittoria’s “Bonincontro” Vineyard
Another of Nicosia’s key holdings is the Bonincontro Vineyard, located near Vittoria, in the southern part of Sicily. Here, the focus is on cultivating the grapes for Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico, the only DOCG wine in Sicily.
The vibrant red Nero d’Avola and the elegant Frappato are the key grapes here, alongside international varieties like Syrah. The vineyard is known for its beautifully preserved landscape, with lush vineyards contrasting against the region’s ochre limestone and ancient olive groves.
Wines from Bonincontro include:
- Cerasuolo di Vittoria Hybla: A blend of Nero d’Avola and Frappato, offering bright fruit flavors and a refined, balanced structure.
- Frappato Bio Vegan Fondo Filara: A lively, organic red with floral notes and a smooth finish, reflecting the light, sandy soils of the vineyard.
The Lunch and Wine Museum
Before lunch in Nicosia’s osteria (restaurant) where we experienced more of the company’s wines, we toured a small museum of sorts. Here, guests could see ancient winemaking tools and photographs of workers through the centuries.
We could also see larger-than-life photos of Nicosia family members.
An Unforgettable Experience
After spending the day at Monte Gorna and tasting some of Nicosia’s finest wines, I was filled with respect for the family’s dedication to quality, tradition, and innovation.
The wines themselves are a reflection of the land’s natural beauty and history, each bottle telling the story of the volcanic soil, the sea breezes, and the family legacy that has shaped this remarkable and now historic winery.
