Tenuta San Leo
It was so great to meet with Giovanna Cunetta in Lazio and visit her biodynamic winery and taste her wines.
This attractive, vibrant young owner met us at the estate. She briefly introduced herself and her winemaker, and then took us to what she called the “original winery.”
It turns out that the old winery is quite rustic. It is used to store some wines, and it is also the facility where they make and store the private-label wine they prepare for a kosher customer.
For that reason, we were not allowed to go inside the maturation room.
We also learned that kosher wine production is very common in Italy and that there is quite a demand.
From the old winery, we headed out to see the organic vineyards and fruit orchards.
In a private conversation with Giovanna, I discovered how her ownership came to be. It turns out that her family gave her carte blanche to find an appropriate vineyard.
Instead of going through a wine-estate broker, she tapped into the “local gossip” when looking for an available property.
With that in mind, no wonder she found this incredible estate that has the remnants of a four-century-old noble residence, with an actual ghost story attached to it. More on that later.
Then we went to visit the modern winery, which is modern indeed. Once we entered, we saw gleaming stainless-steel tanks that only serious money can buy.
From there, we visited the tasting room, a rustic hospitality area above the winery where we had the wine tasting. Along with the wines, Giovanna generously offered a convivial Italian buffet-style lunch.
While others were tasting, I chatted a bit with Giovanna about her plans.
She wants to turn this into a wedding-destination wine estate, and has ideas to develop a spa with various treatments and two swimming pools.
A residence is planned as well.
But on a deeper level, Giovanna’s idea was to create a winery with biodiversity that uses sustainable agriculture to enhance diversity and preserve the territory for future generations.
One aspect of her purchase of the vineyards and existing structures that she did not realize until later was that it came with the furniture of the old residence, which included some fantastic portraits of the original owners.
One gossipy detail: next to the female noble owner wearing an 1880s style dress was a picture of her equally elegantly dressed lady-in-waiting.
No portrait of her husband in sight …
And the ghost story? It revolves around the noble owners, but it may be too scandalous to repeat here.
It was a great tasting, and thanks so much to Giovanna for her time and generosity.
Now for the tasting!
• Drusilla Red (Lazio IGT) – Fresh, medium-bodied red based mainly on Sangiovese with local Lazio varieties, offering bright cherry fruit and gentle spice. Smooth tannins.
• Drusilla White (Lazio IGT) – Crisp, aromatic white from Malvasia and Trebbiano grapes, with citrus, white flowers, and a lightly savory finish. Delicious.
• Drusilla Rosé (Lazio IGT) – Lively, dry rosé based on Sangiovese and other local red grapes, showing red berry fruit and a refreshing, saline edge. Excellent.
• Drusilla Aleatico (Lazio PGI) – Intensely perfumed sweet red from 100% Aleatico, full of rose, violet, and candied red-fruit notes. Fabulous!
• Commodus Malvasia Puntinata (Rome DOC) – Floral, textured white made from Malvasia Puntinata, with ripe stone fruit, citrus peel, and a softly herbal finish.
