Sagrantino Montefalco Dinner
The Montefalco wine region produces wine from the iconic Sagrantino grape, historic and unique to the region.
A Montefalco translates to an annual event representing three focused days of tastings and winery visits that brings journalists and wine professionals from around the world to celebrate this distinctive appellation.
The last event on my self-selected schedule was the closing dinner at the Lunelli-Carapace estate.
Though we had the freedom to choose which final celebration to attend, the allure of Carapace—and the promise of rare vintage Sagrantinos—made this an irresistible choice.
The Lunelli family, which has operated the prestigious Ferrari sparkling wine house in Trentino since the 1950s, now oversees three estates across Italy, with Tenuta Carapace representing their venture into the mystical hills of Umbria.
Their story is one of vision, perseverance, and earning one’s place across generations. A legacy explored in depth in our companion piece on the family’s remarkable history.
Arrival at the Sculpture
Guests arrived just before sunset and were welcomed at the top of a hill overlooking sweeping views of vineyards and valleys below. The grass was vividly green and carried the fresh scent of early evening. From this vantage point, the Carapace winery—designed by the legendary sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro—rose from the landscape like a massive copper-covered turtle shell, visible for miles around.
Beneath a white tent stood a large silver bucket filled with sparkling wines from the Montefalco producers who had hosted us throughout the week.
Attentive waitstaff carefully presented each bottle, ensuring guests could appreciate and photograph the labels before tasting. Among the producers mingling in the crowd, I spotted the familiar faces of producers from the week’s visits who had so generously opened their doors to us.
Nearby, a spread of cheeses, cured meats, and classic Italian aperitivo fare invited guests to wander and enjoy the golden hour.
The Vintage Table
As we moved inside for dinner, one element stopped everyone in their tracks: a long table displaying rare, older vintages of Sagrantino wines from the producers—precious bottles from their private reserves.
This was no ordinary tasting lineup.
These were aged Sagrantinos, some from exceptional years that had been cellared for over a decade, now generously donated by the consortium members for this closing celebration.
Guests were invited to choose freely, to taste and compare, to experience how this powerful, tannic variety evolves with time.
It was a rare and extraordinarily generous gesture, and the room buzzed with excitement as people examined labels, debated vintages, and poured tastes for one another.
Between Two Generations
I found myself seated between two of the evening’s most engaging figures. To my direct left was Alessandro Lunelli, the dynamic force behind Tenuta Castelbuono, and to my right, Filippo Antonelli, head of the historic Antonelli San Marco estate.
Both men were exceptionally generous with their time, stories, precious wines, and deep knowledge of the region. Very fortunate to enjoy and in-depth conversation with both men.
Alessandro Lunelli, whom I had met on previous occasions, radiated energy and passion for this place.
This was my second visit to Carapace. I remembered from my first that he had commissioned Arnaldo Pomodoro, one of the world’s most celebrated sculptors, to design the winery in his final years.
The result is breathtaking: a functional winery that is simultaneously a work of art, its copper surface engraved with fissures reminiscent of furrows in the surrounding earth.
To my right, Filippo Antonelli spoke with equal enthusiasm about the future of his family’s estate.
The Antonelli estate dates back to 1881 when his ancestor Francesco Antonelli, a lawyer from Spoleto, purchased the property from the Archbishop.
“What’s new at Antonelli?” I asked.
His lively brown eyes lit up.
“We’re adding new accommodations,” he explained, describing guest rooms that would sit somewhere between a boutique hotel and the more rustic agriturismo concept common in the region.
But the more ambitious project, he admitted, was creating a proper venue for weddings and events.
“It’s complicated,” he said thoughtfully. “We have neighboring wineries to consider. We can’t have loud celebrations late into the night disturbing everyone.”
Mr. Antonelli envisioned multiple spaces. At this stage, he is considering one for ceremonies, perhaps another for afternoon receptions, and a third designed to accommodate evening celebrations without disrupting the tranquil wine country around them.
Knowing Mr. Antonelli’s attention to detail and respect for tradition, I’m considering the result will be elegant.
The Wines and the Winemakers
As the evening progressed at the Lunelli Carapace space, we were served several courses. Around the table, guests requested their favorite donated Sagrantino producer and vintage to pair with them. The estate’s flagship Carapace Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG was among the wines served. It is a 100% Sagrantino wine from the finest historic vineyards. It showed the variety’s characteristic depth: concentrated aromas of blackberry jam and blueberries, mellowed by skillful vineyard management and long aging in large oak casks.
At one point, the producers gathered at the front of the room, and Alessandro Lunelli introduced them with evident pride. Each spoke briefly about their wine, their approach, and the character of the vintage they had contributed to the evening’s selection. What struck me most was their humility. These were families with deep roots in Montefalco, many spanning multiple generations, who spoke with a quiet sincerity and shared passion that made the evening feel intimate and authentic.
A Celebration of Sagrantino
As the evening drew to a close, I reflected on the extraordinary generosity of these producers. Sharing their finest, aged Sagrantinos freely with visiting journalists was a gesture that spoke volumes. The evening was more than producers showcasing their individual estates. It was about celebrating Sagrantino itself, this distinctive and iconic variety that defines their region.
Sagrantino is a challenging grape. It demands patience, skill, and respect. Its tannins are among the most powerful in the wine world. Only only through careful viticulture and thoughtful aging does it reveal its extraordinary complexity and aging potential. These producers have mastered this skill, each bringing their own philosophy and terroir to express something unique within the appellation.
Thanks to Lunelli Carapace, the Montelfalco producers, and Montefalco consortium for this stellar evening.
